The Pantry
Ingredients worth keeping, and what to do when you have run out.
Sumac
Dried, ground berries. Sour without being sharp.
White miso
Fermented soybean paste, the mild end.
Saffron
Expensive, and worth it in about four dishes.
Sourdough starter
Flour and water and time.
Tomatoes
Only worth eating raw for about ten weeks a year.
Aubergine
Wants salt, oil and more heat than you think.
Purple sprouting broccoli
The best thing about February.
Seville orange
Six weeks a year, then gone.
Wild garlic
Free, briefly.
Gochujang
Fermented chilli paste. Sweet, deep, slow.
Pecorino Romano
Salty, sheepy, essential for cacio e pepe.
Kombu
Dried kelp. The backbone of dashi.
